From a washing machine that won't drain to a dryer that's stopped heating - this guide explains what's actually going wrong and what to do about it. Written by Canberra's appliance repair specialists.
Quick Answer
Washing machines and dryers are two of the hardest-working appliances in any household. When they stop working properly, it's usually not a complete mystery - specific symptoms point to specific faults, and understanding what's happening can help you describe the problem to a technician, decide whether to call someone out immediately, and understand what you're likely to be quoted. This guide covers the most common faults we diagnose in Canberra homes every week.
A washing machine that does nothing when you press start is one of the most frustrating faults - but it often has a straightforward cause. Start with the basics: is the power on, the machine plugged in, and the socket switched on? On front-loaders, the door latch must be fully engaged for the machine to start - if the door isn't perfectly closed and the latch isn't catching, the machine won't run as a safety precaution. On top-loaders, the lid switch serves the same function. Check these first. If the power and door are both fine, possible causes include a blown fuse or tripped breaker, a faulty door latch or lid switch mechanism that isn't signalling correctly, or a failed control board. If the machine clicks, lights up, or makes any sound but won't run a cycle, it's more likely an electronic fault rather than a power issue.
If your washing machine is washing fine but the clothes come out sopping wet - indicating it's not spinning properly - there are several likely causes. On front-loaders, worn carbon brushes on the motor are a common culprit; as the brushes wear down, the motor loses power and the spin becomes weak or stops. A worn or snapped drive belt can also prevent the drum from spinning even when the motor is running. A motor coupling (on some top-loader designs) can break, disconnecting the motor from the drum. Occasionally, the machine isn't spinning because it thinks it's overloaded - try a smaller load to rule this out before calling a technician.
If water remains in the drum at the end of a cycle, or takes a very long time to drain, the first thing to check is the pump filter. Most modern washing machines have a small filter (usually behind a panel at the bottom front of the machine) that catches coins, lint, hairpins, and other debris. A blocked pump filter is one of the most common washing machine problems and is also one of the few things that's safe and straightforward for a homeowner to clear - consult your machine's manual for the location and procedure. If the filter is clear and the machine still won't drain, the drain pump itself may have failed, or the drain hose may be kinked, blocked, or placed too high (which can create a siphoning issue). Faulty pumps need professional replacement.
Water on the floor around your washing machine should always be investigated promptly - water near electrical connections is a safety hazard, and even minor leaks can cause floor damage over time. The most common source of leaks on front-loaders is the door seal (door gasket) - check it for tears, cracks, or trapped debris that might be preventing it from sealing. On all machines, check the inlet hose connections at the back - these can loosen over time. A cracked internal tub is a more serious and expensive fault, fortunately less common. If you can't identify the source of the leak safely, call a technician - don't continue running the machine.
A washing machine that suddenly becomes significantly louder during the spin cycle - particularly a harsh grinding, rumbling, or clunking sound - almost always indicates worn drum bearings. Drum bearings support the drum's rotation; as they wear, they allow the drum to move slightly out of alignment and create noise that gets progressively worse. Worn shock absorbers (which dampen drum movement during spin) can also cause banging or thumping. Occasionally, a foreign object - a coin, a button, a bra underwire - has escaped the drum and become lodged between the drum and the outer tub, causing a rhythmic clunking. Listen carefully: a consistent rattle or clunk that matches the drum's rotation often suggests a foreign object; a constant grinding or rumbling more often suggests bearings.
Modern washing machines from Samsung, LG, Bosch, Fisher & Paykel, and other brands display alphanumeric error codes when a fault is detected. These codes are specific to each manufacturer and model, but common categories include door-related errors (door not closing or locking), water-related errors (not filling or not draining), and spin errors (motor or bearing faults). If your machine is displaying an error code, note it down - search your brand plus the code for a general indication, but for accurate diagnosis, call us. Different models from the same brand can use the same code to mean different things.
The most common dryer fault - and one of the most common appliance faults we're called out for across Canberra. If your dryer is running (drum turning, timer counting) but clothes come out as damp as they went in, the heating system has failed. The primary suspect is a blown thermal fuse - a small safety component that permanently cuts power to the heating element when the dryer exceeds a safe temperature. Once blown, it must be replaced. The underlying cause (usually a blocked lint filter or restricted exhaust duct) must also be fixed, or the new fuse will blow again quickly. If the thermal fuse is intact, a failed heating element (the coil that generates heat) may be the cause, or a faulty thermostat that isn't regulating or allowing the heating circuit to activate. All of these require a technician to diagnose and replace safely.
If your dryer is heating but clothes need two or three cycles to dry fully, this almost always indicates an airflow problem. The dryer works by heating air, passing it through the drum to pick up moisture, and then exhausting that moisture-laden air through a vent duct. If the duct is blocked with lint, or the lint filter is heavily clogged, the moist air can't escape and drying efficiency drops dramatically. Check your lint filter first - if it's heavily clogged, clean it thoroughly. For the exhaust duct, check the external vent outlet: you should feel strong airflow when the dryer is running. A weak airflow means the duct needs cleaning. If airflow is fine but the dryer is still slow, a weak or partially failing heating element may be generating less heat than it should.
If you can hear the motor running (a humming or whirring sound) but the drum isn't moving, the most likely cause is a broken drive belt. The drive belt runs around the drum, over an idler (tension) pulley, and around the motor shaft. It's under constant tension and can break, particularly with heavy loads or as the belt ages. Worn or failed drum rollers (which support the drum at the rear or front) can also prevent rotation if they've completely seized. Motor failure is less common but is possible if the motor makes no sound at all when the dryer is started.
Noise during dryer operation is almost always a mechanical wear issue. A high-pitched squealing during operation typically indicates worn drum bearings or a dry and failing idler pulley bearing - as the bearing surface wears, metal-on-metal contact creates the squeal. A rhythmic thumping often indicates drum rollers that have developed flat spots from prolonged use (they're no longer perfectly round, so each flat spot creates a thump as the drum rotates). Either symptom should be addressed promptly - worn bearings and rollers place additional load on the motor and can cause secondary damage if left to deteriorate further.
A dryer that starts, runs for 10–20 minutes, and then shuts off is activating its thermal safety cut-out - a protection mechanism that stops the appliance before it reaches a dangerously high temperature. This is the dryer protecting you and your home from a fire risk. The most common cause is a severely blocked exhaust duct that traps heat inside the drum. A faulty cycling thermostat that isn't regulating temperature correctly can also cause this. If your dryer is shutting off mid-cycle, stop using it and call a technician. Running it repeatedly while this fault is present puts real strain on components and creates a genuine fire hazard.
A dryer that does nothing when you press start often has a faulty door switch - the mechanism that detects whether the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer thinks its door is open and won't run. Check that the door is fully closed first. If it is and the dryer still won't start, the door switch is the prime suspect, followed by the thermal fuse (which also disables the machine when blown), the start switch, or the control board.
There are a handful of safe, simple checks any homeowner can carry out before calling a technician. These can sometimes resolve the issue immediately, or at least give the technician useful information:
Beyond these safe visual and mechanical checks, we strongly recommend calling a professional. Attempting to open appliance casings, bypass safety switches, or repair electrical components without qualifications is dangerous and can turn a straightforward repair into a much more expensive one.
Call Appliance King on 0402 373 016 if:
We serve all Canberra suburbs with same-day and next-day availability. Our technicians carry common parts for major brands, which means most repairs are completed in a single visit.
Start with the basics: is power reaching the machine? Is the door fully closed and latched? On front-loaders, the door must be completely shut for the machine to start. Check if a delay start has been set accidentally. If all of these are fine and the machine still won't start, the door latch mechanism, lid switch, fuse, or control board may have failed and needs a technician's diagnosis.
The most common cause is a blocked pump filter - most washing machines have a small filter at the bottom front that traps debris. Check your machine's manual for the location and clear any lint, coins, or debris from the filter. If the filter is clear and the machine still won't drain, the drain pump itself may have failed and needs professional replacement.
The most likely cause is a blown thermal fuse - a safety device that cuts heating when the dryer overheats, usually due to a blocked lint filter or vent duct. Once blown, the fuse must be replaced and the airflow problem fixed. Other causes include a failed heating element or faulty thermostat. All require a technician to diagnose and repair safely - call Appliance King on 0402 373 016.
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